Mrs. Stovepipe is still wondering if I’m crazy (they have more politically correct words for it these days). And maybe I am. Crazy like a fox. It does indeed run, the gas tank is clean, and it has the original key that works for the ignition, gas hatch, two trunk locks, all four pannier locks, the CB cover lock, the radio release lock, the fairing cubby lock, and both helmet locks. In case you lost track, that is thirteen locks. ASPENCADE! This thing has a tape deck, CB radio, comm system, adjustable air suspension, and an onboard compressor to pump up tires. Stick with me and we’ll never run flat again.

The rear wheel was taken off by the PO to clean the tank and he said he put it back on without the spacers. As I discovered, the rear brake caliper bracket also wasn’t installed. I put the faux tank back on and several other pieces so I could get it back together. It almost looks complete. Not bad for one days work. I would have been able to fully assemble it except for the huge crack down the center of the rear tire. I got the spacers back on just to see how everything went but stopped there so I could mount a new tire. And that is where I am presently at. Next week I should have the title transferred and a collector plate so I can get this beast on the road.

I told Mrs. Stovepipe I would paint it so it didn’t look like a trash heap. If you consider the number of locks on this thing that’s about the number of panels that need paint too. Wish me luck.

UPDATE 11/10/18

I removed the carburators to give them a good cleaning. LittleStovePipe helped get the air filter houseing disassembled, and provided emotional support while I removed the lower fairing and other bits. I didn’t get any pictures but if you can imagine me cringing in fear and disbelief. It ran pretty good for being so plugged up. Not that it ran good. I got everything blown out and brushed up. It’s a bit of a pain to get the carbs in and out so hopfully I won’t have to repeat the procedure. She runs great. Smokes like a 40’s comic villain right now which should clear up with some spirited riding. Next up is to bleed the clutch because it’s pretty well non-existent at this point.

Oddly enough they arrive like a brick of coca-hína from a bad 80’s cop show. Inside is a nice box with the levers in bubble wrap and cut foam.

They are sold by about two dozen no name companies that rebrand the same thing over and over. I bought the MZS ones from ebay. They have a slight texture, you know for better grip on the top of the lever. Yes the top, that part that doesn’t really get used. Anyway, I paid $10 less on ebay than amazon wanted, so for $22 shipped to my door in under a week I did pretty good for myself.

Well, short is a bit of a stretch and since the same guy is machining all the inexpensive ones this is what you get. Three fingers if you want them. Would be nice to see a true short lever pop up. So they obviously aren’t doing any good sitting in the box. Time for the install. As a side note I chose to leave my handguards in place.

First things first on the brake side, move the throttle cable out of its clip and adjust it out of the way. Then remove the bolt holding the lever on. No picture but there is a nut on the bottom of the bolt so grab an 8mm wrench or socket too. Give the lever a firm pull the separate the linkage from its socket. 

You’ll need to press out the brass bushing so you can transfer the linkage to the new lever. I used the same torx bit to remove the bolt and press out the bushing.

Ah, the infamous spring I read so much about but was never photographed in the wild. Make sure you point the linkage in a safe direction and keep a finger over the end so it doesn’t pop out when the bushing comes free. It isn’t under an extreme load, but enough to take flight should the occasion call for it.

I took the opportunity to clean up the linkage. If you like dirt then they go back together all the same with it still on. I recon this will be the one and only time mine get “the treatment”. The brake has a dogleg on the end while the clutch does not.

Getting the brass bushing back in is the most difficult part and required a few light taps with an implement of force. Again the torx socket bit is great. Keep in mind our old friend the spring is keeping tension on the linkage and preventing the hole from lining up.

Both linkages came out with some grease so they got some new white lithium grease before going back in. Once you get the socket back in the slot just give it a firm push until it seats. Line up the bushing and get the bolt and nut snugged down.

Final install check revealed the bolts that hold the lever pivot were not tight. They tighten with a nylock nut on the underside and it appears easiest for the manufacturer to secure them without snugging them down. I took care of this myself to tighten up the feel of the levers. There did not appear to be any risk of separation due to the use of the nylock nut.

Done! The other side is exactly the same. Which is a shame because I took picture of both with my greasy hands the whole time. These are amazing and I would suggest everyone get a pair of aftermarket levers. The adjusments make setup a breeze and my clutching is much smoother. They come in short and long, even adjustable. For $22 bucks it might be the best farkle bought this year.

Step one of course was removing the caliper and pulling the old rotor off. Caliper is super easy to remove. The rotor requires a bit of heat to each bolt and a torx bit long enought to clear the housing. I used a butane torch and a torx bit in an extension driver with a bit of painters tape to protect the final drive.

Out with the old and in with the new. Wavy rotors look waaaay cooler than OEM. Oh yeah, and they dissipate heat better or some such. After the old rotor came off the bolts got the wire brush treatment and the bolt holes needed some cleaning to remove the old thread locking compound.

Once everything is cleaned up, including removal of the coating on the new rotor, time to install. New thread locker is needed for each bolt.

Back in the way it came out. I fitted the first bolt and snugged it down so I could spin the rotor an do the opposing bolt to prevent the rotor from flopping everywhere. Once you snug them all up they get an inital torque of 12 nm, then a final of 30 nm.

Braking brand recommends new pads to bed in a new rotor. Lucky me I hads some. What no one ever mentions is the perfect storm they both make. I’m still amazed I even got the caliper back on with those new pads. Almost took longer than the whole rest of the process. 

My caliper pad pin is pretty well at its service limit by next pad change. I greased the caliper with moly at all the good spots and will order a new pin set with my next pads.

200 mile break in after the inital bed in process. I commute on my bike so that was about a week but it feels like forever. With the new short levers I installed the brakes feel great and work great too. We’ll see how they do now the rain is back. I’ll post an update after some good wet weather commuting.